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Saturday, June 30, 2018

SOLO ROADTRIP: SAVANNAH [GA]

sorry for the delay. i started a new assignment at work with overtime, and boy is it exhausting. anyhoo the next day, i decided to have a late start on the road so i could visit the mcleod plantation. i had planned to do this when i arrived to the city, but ran out of time. also it was recommended by a ranger at fort sumpter (rangers always have the best recommendations).



but first, coffee. i went to a small local place.


the mcleod plantation home was built in 1858 and constructed by slaves. the family made money off of sea island cotton. the area is a gullah heritage site. the culture was influenced by african, low country, and coastal culture. they speak a type of creole. not only is there still a large community in charleston, but savannah. also the freedmen's bureau was temporaily located here.




the family stayed in the home until the 1990s.



one of the original structures has the fingerprints of a child slave. children were forced to make the bricks.



a magnolia. honestly this was the only one i noticed during my trip, even thought the carolinas and georgia are known for them.





original slave cabins. crazy to think people, mostly blacks, rented these until the 1990s.



this is either the wappoo creek or ashley river.


i then made my way to savannah. the drive was not too far, but along the way i found a cute little old gas station that was transformed into a local goods market. it mostly has preserves, cider, and dessert. i bought a rocky road pecan bark and had a cider sample. it was a cute little stop.




once i arrived in savannah, i went to old fort jackson (named after james, not andrew). it is located along the savannah river (south carolina is across the river). the brick structure was built in 1808-1812 on top of a revolutionary war battery. president jefferson built it for the expected war with europe...again.




during the civil war, the fort saw battle in the attack on savannah. the fort was confedorate headquarters until the surrender of the city in 1964.








there were 2 cannon demonstrations while i was there. the first one is for tourists. the historical reenactor shoots the cannon towards a boast of tourists sailing along the river. the second one is an actual historical demonstration. in between, there was a an educational demonstration about the fort.



the reenactor was walter. turns out he's from echo park and moved to georgia as a child. he also has a degree in history (and is a cutie patootie).


after, i drove to the georgia state railroad museum (i looove the one in sacramento, ca). this one was definitely not as big and there was not much to see, but it was worth the ticket. there is a combo ticket you can get where you can visit 3 out 5 museums thats are run by the savannah coastal society. the train museum, old jackson fort, and the savannah city museum were all under this ticket. the museum consists of locomotives along a roundhouse and passenger trains.




one interesting fact is after diesel trains beat out steam engines, the train depot was literally sold brick by brick. the bricks were seen as very valuable. they were made in the city and to this day, nobody knows how they were made and of what. also, i was able to see a segregated passenger train from the 1960s. there is only one other in the country,.

driving to my hotel, which was an econolodge, was a trip. every street was just filled with oak trees and moss. it feels like you are in another world or something out of dr. seuss. i was hungry, but didn't want to drive so i ate somewhere within walking distance. the only place was a panda express, so that was dinner.

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the next day i was going to take a bus to the historic area, but the hotel receptionist advised against it. so i sucked it up and paid for parking in a lot. the first stop was the savannah history museum, which was okay. the museum was a bit outdated and i did not think the most interesting, but it was one of the attractions that opened up the earliest.

after, i walked through several squares. savannah is knows for its public squares, which are really small parks with benches and maybe a statue.



i think this is pulaski square.



lafayette square.


i bought a sandwich and iced latte at a little cafe across from chippewa square. i knew this was where the famous box of chocolates scene in forrest gump was filmed. while i was eating, i was trying to google my way to find out where in the square was it filmed. funny thing, it was filmed literally in front of me. also there wan't a real bench. it was a movie prop that is now inside the savannah history museum (i saw that too).



the scene was filmed below the one way sign.




colonial park cemetery.


the next museum was the american prohobition museum. it was a bit gimicky, but i had fun. i still don't really understand why in savannah, but georgia was a state where the discussion was polarized. for being gimicky, it was still quite immersive. there was a lot that you can touch (and also a ton of wax figures). you can also buy a combo ticket and get a drink at the speakeasy.




now for some interesting facts. prohibition contributed to walgreens growth. during prohobition, liquor was only legal through presctibtion and walgreens issued the most medicinal liguor prescribtions than any other drugstore.



"mother's in the kitchen washing the jugs, sister's in the pantry bottling the suds, father's in the cellar mixing up the hops, johnny's on the front porch watching for the cops."



i felt weird taking this photo, but the worker offered. apparently this is a real gutted tommy gun, whatever that means. the worker had to show me how to hold it. across from my view were wax figures of people shot to death in a car. lovely.




also on a side note, the older woman at the gift shop register called me sugar. i love the southern terms of endearment. i then made my way to the riverwalk, along the savannah river. there is not a ton to do, just eat and shop at touristy shops. the buildings are cool. they were early 20th century cotton warehouses. 



a cool antique store.



to go down to river front, you have to go down steep, dangerous, and historical staircases.



a memorial to those brought over during the slave trade, and the irony of a cargo ship sailing down the river in the distance.


funny story about this. i love affogatos, vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso. i saw this little greek place that also sold ice cream and coffee and thought maybe they made these. i have seen them sold in the most random places including old town san diego and oatman arizona (a mining ghost town). when i went inside and asked, the worker got the owner (i did not mean for it to go this far). an older man with a thick greek accent came out, asked what it was, said he would make it, and broke me off a piece of his graham cracker. he was very nice and i got me my treat :) 



my affogato.


after walking along the storefronts, i took a free bus to forsyth park, the biggest park that i visited in the city. i would also say it is the most popular. the fountain is a famous photo spot. there were even wedding photos being taken when i was there.



the fountain is from 1858.




instead of taking the bus to my car, i walked. there were so many little details.





i then made my way to my hotel and picked up some panera. sometimes you just need a good ol' salad.



my room in savannah.


now for a song. i have always enjoyed kasey musgraves' music and my favorite song from her album is slow burn. i also discovered this song during my trip. enjoy!

Saturday, June 2, 2018

SOLO ROADTRIP: CHARLESTON [SC]

i know i say this every time, but this post is going to be long. the next day i made my way to south carolina. i was a bit nervous because a storm was a brewin'. the local news made a big deal of it. apparently they were expecting big winds, especially along the coast. also there was a slight tornado warning. because of this, i left earlier than planned so i could reach charleston before the storm would. spoiler alert: it really was not that bad, just so damn humid. also there was a ton of organ church music on the radio. i guess that's a typical sunday in the south.

the first stop was congaree national park. to get there, you have to take a long green road, which was lovely. also, freeway exits are far and few between. i remember being so excited to find a starbucks. the park is a swampy coastal forest. in city girl terms, there are a whole bunch of trees in a big giant puddle. i was nervous for the storm, so asked the ranger and he said to not to wait too long to get back on the road. i also asked what to do during a tornado, he said go underground, i asked but what if you are in a car, he said drive in the other direction. it was not very helpful.






i felt like i should at least take a little walk for driving all the way over here. i did not realize how long the trail was. i thought maybe a mile, but it was 2.5. i ran a lot of it because i really needed to get back on the road. it was a very humid and sweaty work out, but there were beautiful flowers blooming.



the boardwalk trail.



my national geographic moment.



so many pretty little wildflowers.


i then made my way to charleston. the wind was picking up and that was a little scary in my little little nissan versa. my first stop was charles towne landing, a state park. it is in charleston but across the river from the main section of the city. here was the location of the first permanent settlement of the carolinas. the historic site has a reconstructed fort, a replica cargo vessel, a historic home (which was closed for an event), and a zoo (super random). it's a nice walk and a good way to be introduced to the city. the site really lets you learn the city's roots, but it was incredibly humid and cloudy. there is also a decent sized museum in the visitor's center. here, i asked the state ranger about the storm. he looked at me like i was silly and said it was just a little rain storm.







another national geographic moment.



it was so hot, i spoiled myself by eating an ice cream. i also discovered a gator outside the window. i thought the ranger was just joking.


i was supposed to go to the mcleod plantation, but was running late. i decided to not stress about it and pass (i did end up going 2 days later). instead, i went to find some food. i decided on panera (i just wanted a good ol' salad). i also had the most embarrassing experience. i went to a gas station and could not figure out how to pump. i had to go inside 2 times until a worker came out in his little highlighter yellow vest and an annoyed look on his face to help me. i had no idea that at old gas stations you have to pull a lever on the stand before you can push the trigger on the nozzle. i felt like an idiot. funny enough i never saw this type again and i went to some pretty small towns.

i then made my way to the hostel. it was very confusing. street blocks are so small and i ended up missing my street and drove on a bridge to an island. oops. i figured out my way back. unfortunately, the south does not have many hostels. atlanta had one but you had to stay a minimum of 3 nights and in savannah you have to have a minimum of 3 people, so charleston was my only hostel stay. more about that later. i stayed at the not-so hostel.

it was only about 5 when i arrived, but i stayed in for the rest of the night. the storm finally arrived and it really was not so bad. like i said before it was just very humid with a bit of wind and it never rained hard, it just never stopped. i stayed up and talked with a few of the workers and hostel goers for quite a few hours. it got quite awkward at times. people got right into politics and religion. i have to admit, there were quite a few bougie snow flakes, but i did have a really good conversation with a guy from pittsburgh who travels around the country and picks up a job wherever he's at. he was really nice and had the most infectious smile.

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the next morning i woke up pretty early and walked to the closest starbucks, which was still a mile away. it was a cold and windy day. funny how it could cool down at least 25 degrees from the day before. after coffee, i stopped at one of the city's visitors center, which was in an old train depot (it was the only thing open that early). i then walked another 1.5 miles to the nps' fort sumpter visitor education center. i did not actually go to fort sumpter. it is an island and therefore you have to take a ferry. i only had one full day in charleston. the first shots of the civil war were fired here.



nps' liberty square. this used to be gadsden's gate, which is one of the areas where slaves were imported from africa. also, the ironwork was done by philip simmons.



the aquarium was across the way. i saw his twin in the antlanta botanical garden.


i then walked to the aiken-rhett house, which is in a residential neighborhood. this was one of my favorite historical sites of my trip and was unlike anything i saw. you take an audio guide (my favorite) throughout the property. instead of restoring the home to it's original grandeur, the museum's approach is to conserve what is left and 'as found.' much of the furniture is original to the family. the home actually stayed in the family until a historical foundation bought it. in person, it looks like a family packed up their belongings before a hurricane and this is what's left. it was so interesting to photograph and learn about how people lived here. prepare for tons of pictures.

the home was built in 1820 and designed to be a plantation home in an urban setting. therefore, there is a courtyard in the backyard. the complex includes slave quarters, a kitchen, a carriage block, and privies. the family consisted of a state governor and owner of a railroad company. 


this portion of the complex was the slave quarters. the original fixtures, paint, and floors are inside. also, unlike a lot of slave quarters, there are doors that can be locked from the inside.





this picture turned out creepy but i like it.







this was the ballroom. the audio guide took a wonderful creepy turn when it started playing ballroom music. i love stuff like this.


after visiting the house, i took a long stroll and visited some outdoor attractions, including king st. (the old commercial area) and chalmers st. (an old cobblestone street).



king st.



french hugguenot church (c.1844), gothic revival



church st.


i also stopped at the old historical courthouse. most of it was closed because court was in session and there was a special event going on, so i only looked at the first floor. the security officer was nice. he told me this part of the courthouse was only used for the same court litigation i work for and i could see his eyes light up. he started giving me the history and said i could go to the second story if i was quiet. it was a kind gesture from a stranger. he also told me to visit the post office across the street and i did. it is still a functioning post office that is connected to a federal courthouse. the building was built in 1896 and the inside is restored to that time period. lots of mahogany, brass, and marble. very cool.





the old slave mart was used as a slave auction gallery after it was outlawed to use the exchange house. today it is a museum. 


next was the exchange house and provost (recommended to me by a ranger at fort sumpter). this building served many civil functions, including a slave auction house until it was outlawed from public buildings. the guide was dressed gimicky, but the tour was very good especially learning abut the early city planning. interestingly, this building was near the harbor, but over time the area was landfilled two blocks out. i also had no idea that most of boston is landfilled, and i was there. during the revolutionary war, the provost (or dungeon) was used to store confiscated tea, as a prison, and barracks. 



entrance to the provost.


i then walked along the shore and through residential neighborhoods. here is where i was able to see much more of the architecture of charleston. charleston has it's own style and is a combo of architecture found in the caribbean and new england.



one of the most photographed homes are the pastel ones found on rainbow row. enjoy my mug.





this house was epic 



i walked down the street and happened to find a house that is supposedly haunted.








i also visited the city market (c.1790).




after i walked a couple miles and built up my appetite, i went to a comfort food restaurant called virginia's. it was good but i then forgot my bag of souvenirs after i walked 5 blocks. oops. luckily they were still in the restaurant.



delicious chicken & dumplings (and already eaten corn bread)



 i knew this theater was here, but did not know i was going to pass it. this was the infamous theater from the notebook.


i then walked back to the hostel, grabbed my travel journal (how do you think i can remember all my trip info when its been months), and sat out on the veranda. i ended up talking to this finance guy from new york that i met the night before. a freelance techy guy from south carolina joined us. they invited me to eat. i did not plan to go, but the ny guy asked me nicely and i did not get bad vibes. so we walked to a bbq place. i'm glad i went. it was the only time i got bbq (a bbq pork taco to be specific).




besides the good food, there was good conversation. honestly it was one of the best hostel experiences i have ever had. i also went to a beer garden with them. there was a bad singer, but he did sing the most popular song from the wedding singer to a future bride (i was entertained). unlike the night before, no one hit on me or made me feel uncomfortable. we just had some good old fashion conversation and did not exchange contact information. i don't even remember their names, but hanging out was one of the highlights of my trip. i also met a british guy who works for the airlines and knows of my little town because he is in la so much and takes our metro system.

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i really loved my hostel. i know in other parts of the world there is such a hype about hostels, but this was probably my top 2 hostel experiences. the workers were great and i was surrounded by a great group of people. american hostel goers are always the nicest.

the hostel is in an old 19th century house (all the homes on this street are this old). it was a typical charleston building. it was 2 stories, had a front porch, and a 2nd story veranda. the set-up was kind of funny. there are 2 front doors and if you cut the house in half they would be mirror images, so there are 2 sets of staircases and back doors. it was interesting. because it was old there were some minor issues including a leaky roof and creaky floors, but i did not mind. also, this hostel has free parking! out of my whole trip, i slept the best during this stay. i think thats because i am much more a hostel than hotel person.

i stayed in the victoria room. they transferred me to a female dorm when i cancelled my dad's reservations. every room is named and themed after an important person to the owner or hostel. victoria is the owner and the room was decorated with cute little items and female literature (like austen).



my room.


the veranda/balcony.



one of the kitchens. there was one on the other side of the stairs too. like i said, it's a mirror imaged home.


now for a song! i'm going to go along with the last post and pick a song about south carolina. i had to google to find a song and i settled with dean martin and 'just a little bit south of north carolina' (side note, he also sings another song about the carolinas). it has a classic sound just like how charleston has a classic feel. enjoy!